The FDA signed off on a new ingredient for sunscreen today for the first time in more than two-and-a-half decades.
Bemotrizinol, an ingredient used in European and Asian products, met the agency’s standards for protecting from dangerous ultraviolet rays while not being irritating or harmful to skin.
The popular ingredient often used in Korean skin products is a skin-protecting chemical that’s hailed by dermatologists as great for skin.
Skin cancer is one of the most common cancers in the US, with more than 5 million people diagnosed every year.
Experts have long called for approval of ingredients, such as bemotrizinol, that offer broader and more stable protection from ultraviolet (UV) rays.
“This is a meaningful advancement for sunscreen innovation in the US,” Dr. Jessica Weiser, a dermatologist and founder of Weiser Skin MD, told The Post. “Bemotrizinol has been widely used in Europe for years, and dermatologists have long been aware of its ability to provide broad-spectrum protection against both UVA and UVB rays.
“Having another FDA-recognized sunscreen filter available to consumers expands our options and supports the development of more elegant, effective formulations that can encourage daily sunscreen use.”
The FDA previously only designated two active ingredients — zinc oxide and titanium dioxide — as Generally Recognized As Safe and Effective (GRASE).
What is bemotrizinol?
Also known as BEMT, bemotrizinol is an oil-soluble chemical that offers protection against UVB and UVA rays.
While UVA rays penetrate deep into skin, causing premature aging and the development of skin cancers, UVB rays directly damage cellular DNA, which can create mutations that lead to basal cell carcinoma, squamous cell carcinoma and melanoma.
While bemotrizinol, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide offer broad protection and are approved by the FDA, other common chemical filters, like oxybenzone, are under safety review as their long-term safety and potential toxicity is unclear.
The newest ingredient will be included in the GRASE category as absorption into the skin is low.
It’s also photostable, meaning it doesn’t break down quickly in the sun and can last longer on skin.
Is bemotrizinol better than other sunscreen ingredients?
The short answer? Yes. For one thing, it has the “most robust safety data of any UV filter to date,” according to Dr. Weiser.
“For the US sunscreen market, BEMT is a new type of chemical sunscreen filter that provides significantly better UVA protection than the other chemical actives currently available in the US,” she added.
“Most US chemical sunscreen products have very good UVB protection to guard against sunburn but are estimated to only protect against about 25% of the UVA rays that cause pigmentation and collagen breakdown.”
It also works well with other ingredients and provides a higher SPF at lower doses, according to other skincare experts.
“We have been stuck in the past, while the rest of the world enjoys superior formulas with lightweight, elegant, safer sunscreens with better protection,” New York City-based board-certified dermatologist Gary Goldenberg told Women’s Health.
The two FDA-approved ingredients are also often found in mineral sunscreens, which can leave a white, chalky film. Chemical-based sunscreens may dry without residue, but they can also irritate sensitive skin.
None of that means you shouldn’t be using them, though.
“Ultimately, the best sunscreen is the one you like enough to use every single day of the year, and additional safe, effective options are always welcome,” said Weiser. “Today’s news is a win for skin health.”
How to buy bemotrizinol sunscreen
It will be a while before you find multiple products containing bemotrizinol lining the shelves.
The first products containing the ingredient in the US will be sold under the name Parsol Shield and made by the Dutch manufacturer DSM Nutritional Products.
Then other manufacturers will be able to use the ingredient after 18 months.
“Americans deserve timely access to the best safe, effective and consumer-friendly over-the-counter products available,” FDA Commissioner Marty Makary said in a statement delivered at the end of last year.
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